Thursday, May 18, 2017

The Ultimate Guide to a Las Vegas Proposal (circa 2005)


My husband proposed to me in Las Vegas 12 years ago this weekend. Although this post doesn't have the best travel advice for a Vegas holiday, it's a pretty incredible story. I hope you enjoy. Make sure you read to the end!

I suppose it all began back in March, 2005 when I decided to surprise J by visiting him at MIT in April. I sat in my apartment bedroom in Fry C 103 anxiety stricken about the details. The plan would be for me to drive to PHL right after my classes on Wednesday afternoon. Service Day was Thursday (an annual event at my alma mater where classes are canceled and all of the students participate in some kind of service project) and instead of doing a service project like a good little student, I was going to play hooky Thursday, skip classes on Friday, and go see my beloved boyfriend at school. Finally, with a jolt of impetuosity, I clicked the final button to book my flight, and set the first wave into motion.

At that moment, everything was perfect. I booked a late flight, so I could get to PHL regardless of traffic or weather. I planned on taking a cab directly from the airport to where J lived. He was completely oblivious, and I hoped things would stay that way. The first thing that went wrong was my COMPLETE inability to keep a secret. I didn’t tell J that I was coming to visit him. I did worse. I created a series of clues and puzzles and sent them to him. I must have been quite tricky because he figured out that they were all numbers, but he didn’t know what those numbers meant. Each clue eventually came down to a countdown of the weeks until I arrived. He figured out that it was a countdown to something, but he couldn’t figure out what. (Or did he?)

When I arrived in Boston, I went going over the different things that I could say to him when I got there. My plan was to call him and pretend that I had just gotten home from work, make it seem like I missed him so much, but then magically I was there. When I arrived, I stood right outside his door. I called him and said, “I wish I could be with you.” He said the same, and then I said, “well, maybe if you just opened your door…” and I hung up the phone and knocked on his door. No answer. NO Answer? I knocked again, and then I called him back. Finally, one of his roommates answered the door, I apologized for waking him up, told J he was a moron for not opening the door, hung up the phone again, and walked into his room. He was absolutely stunned. It was an amazing moment and he was incredibly surprised!!


The next day, he had class and work. He said he would meet me that afternoon at the Galleria (the local mall). All morning I just putzed around. At one point, I opened up his middle bureau drawer to see what items of mine he still had. In the past, I had left perfume, soap, lotion, etc. and I was curious to see what was still there. (Please keep in mind that the next series of events are completely my fault, and I am fully aware of how horrible I was.) In the back of the drawer, I wouldn’t help but notice a small mailing box. I pulled it out and saw that it had his parents’ address on it. Rather puzzled, I opened the box, and saw a large, rectangular jewelry looking box inside. (It looked like the kind of box that would hold a necklace.) Intrigued (and YES nosey) I opened the box to discover a jewelry box inside, with a small piece of paper sticking out. When I realized it wasn’t jewelry, I was still curious about what it was. I looked at the piece of paper and it had a bunch of different markings in pencil on the four corners. One said .90kt, another E-F, and one said VS2. Any girl who has done research on engagement rings is well aware of exactly what these strange characters mean. Carat, color, and clarity, all of the above being quite incredible. Very slowly and carefully, I unfolded the paper (yes, I know, how horrible could I be?) and discovered a very delicate, round diamond. There was no setting, it was just a loose stone.

Absolutely unable to contain my excitement, I called my college roommate immediately. She shared in my joy, but warned me that I could not reveal to J what I had discovered at the risk of ruining my own proposal.

*Just a side note, J and I were in the midst of planning a weeklong trip to Las Vegas in May to celebrate my 21 birthday. I (along with my whole clan of family and friends) was expecting him to propose in Vegas.

Carefully, and trying to calm myself down, I put the stone back, folded the piece of paper, placed the box back exactly where I found it, and attempted to pursue a normal day. That afternoon, I met J around 3 at Kendall Square. We took the Wave (a free shuttle) over to the Galleria, and we had lunch and did some shopping. Well, like the clues I gave J about my trip to Boston that revealed my inability to keep a secret, I walked around the Galleria with the face of a guilty puppy. The moment I saw J, he had the look on his face like, “What did you do?” We walked around the mall for an hour or so and pretty soon our conversation became a lot like this:

J: “Just tell me what happened? I already know, so just be honest.”
Me: “I don’t know what you’re talking about. I don’t want you to hate me.”
J: “Just tell me. You know I love you!”
Me: “If you already know, why do I have to tell you?”

Finally, I came clean with my discovery, but J’s reaction what not quite what I expected. He absolutely freaked out! He started yelling at me about invading his privacy, and about how he would never give me that stone (pay very close attention to this section). He was planning on proposing in Vegas, but now there was no way he could find another stone and have it set in a ring in time. He wasn’t even sure he wanted to propose to someone so nosey and who would actually ruin her own dream proposal. On and on he went. I didn’t know what to do or how to react. I just kept apologizing profusely, and he apologized too saying that he had the perfect proposal planned, but now he couldn’t do it. I was absolutely devastated! This trip was supposed to be a fun surprise, not something that would turn into a huge fight questioning our entire relationship.

Eventually we came to an understanding, but our future was still a little shaky. We enjoyed the rest of the weekend, trying to put that horrible fight behind us. Right before I left to go back to PHL on Sunday night, J asked me not to tell anyone about what I had found, except A who already knew. By that point, A also told the other 2 girls in our apartment, but the secret of the discovered diamond was confined to Fry C 103.

I really had no idea how the week in Las Vegas was going to go. Should I expect a proposal anyway? Would we ever get engaged? We arrived in Las Vegas just before midnight of my 21st birthday. A taxi took us to the Excalibur hotel, and we checked in. J’s parents gave me a birthday card with two quarters taped on the inside for me to use in the slot machines. Without even getting settled in our room, we hit the casino floor for an hour of fun before turning in for night. We had a full week of activities booked, but at midnight on your 21st birthday, who doesn’t want to gamble a little and get their first legal drink? I drank a fuzzy navel, and I don’t even think I gambled away $10 before I was ready for bed.

On our first day in Las Vegas, we had planned on exploring about 1/3 of the “strip” before our evening activities. The day, however, began a little earlier than I planned when someone knocked at the door. J quickly leapt out of bed and greeted the room service delivery. How thoughtful! He arranged for room service on my birthday. Only, he seemed just as surprised as I was. He didn’t arrange for room service? Who did? J thought that maybe his parents called and preordered it for us. After calling his parents and me calling my parents, we were still unsure of who sent my birthday breakfast. On the tray sat three silver covered plates, syrup, butter, and orange juice. Under the first silver platter was a small note and a square, navy blue ring box. Terribly excited, I shrieked with joy and excitement. J, on the other hand, went from looking very confused to furious when I opened up the delicate ring box to reveal a large, ostentatious diamond ring. Even more mysterious than a ring from an unidentified sender was the note that accompanied it. It said, “My darling princess when I saw you enter my castle last night, I was immediately enchanted by your beauty. Please accept this small token of my affection. If you wear the ring, it will work its magic and bring us together.”

Now my furious boyfriend became both worried and enraged. Worried that there was someone stalking us in the hotel, and horribly jealous that this was actually from another boy. I, on the other hand, found the whole thing rather comical and ate my fill of the pancakes that were under the other two silver platters. I wasn’t about to let this strange breakfast scenario ruin our first day in Vegas.


We ventured out of Excalibur, and started walking around the Las Vegas Strip. We toured different hotels like New York New York, Aladdin (which is not be there anymore), Luxor, and the MGM Grand. We ate lunch at the Rainforest Café inside the MGM Grand which was decent but looking back 12 years later, I would never go to a chain restaurant on a vacation like that. After lunch we were walking by the huge MGM Grand fountains, and J got this sheepishly romantic look on his face, took my hands, and said, “How romantic would it be by the fountains in Las Vegas?” Honestly, at that moment, everything just seemed wrong and very awkward. J got down on one knee, gazed into my eyes, and as he said, “Corinne will you mar…” he held up a ring with the center stone missing. I exploded with laughter and relief that this was not a real proposal. (I had explained earlier that I didn’t want a public proposal, and that I would like it to be a quiet, private atmosphere.) J, on the other hand, was absolutely freaking out. (He is apparently very good at that.) He frantically searched his pockets and the ground for the stone. I just stood here laughing because I knew he didn’t actually mean to propose right then. To humor him, though, I still wore the empty setting on my finger until the sharp prongs started catching on everything.

That evening for dinner, we went to the buffet inside Excalibur. After our first round through the entrées, we both went to the restroom. When we got back to our table, there was another small note on our table resting up against a glass. The instant I saw it, I froze. What happened that afternoon at MGM was funny, but the breakfast ordeal was still slightly confusing. The notes, however, were identical in size, shape, and handwriting (which was not J’s). This time, the note from Merlin said, “My darling princess, when I suspected that false suitor would attempt to take you from me, I cast my magic and stole away his cheap glass. The ring I have given you contains magical powers, and when you wear it, its magic will draw me nearer to you.”

Although I was extremely puzzled, I rather liked this mysterious adventure I felt I was on. If I really sat down and pondered hard on the various notes I would be receiving throughout the week, I’m sure I could have uncovered the mysterious plan, but I was in no hurry to do so. Adventures are more exciting when you don’t know what’s coming. The note made me laugh, but again, I wasn’t about ready to let it ruin my “birthday” trip, although J’s choice of stalker words did have me slightly cautious.

No room service woke us up the next morning. Instead we had plans of exploring more of the Las Vegas “strip.” Our primary destination was the Paris hotel. We bought tickets to go up in the smaller scaled Eiffel Tower in the afternoon. When we were at the lookout tower at the top, J got this whimsical look on his face like he was seeing a rainbow for the first time. I knew the look. It was the same look he wore outside of the MGM Grand. I gave him a very sharp glare because there were a lot of people around. That would have been a very public proposal. (Thinking back, this was all before smart phones. Imagine how many people would have been videotaping us with their phones if this had happened today.) Despite all of that, he took my hands, gazed into my eyes, got down on one knee…and again pulled out another stoneless ring. Relieved that this incredibly awkward situation was yet another ruse, I pulled a blushing boy up to his feet

.
For dinner we ate Chinese quickly in New York New York before a Cirque Du Solei show that we booked weeks ago. If you ever go to Vegas, you have to see a Cirque show. They’re absolutely incredible. We spent very little time and money gambling in Vegas. There was just too much else to do and see. When we arrived back at Excalibur, a note lay right on the inside of our hotel room door. As fun as this adventure was, my naiveté (and J’s false concerns) did cause some concern when I thought a potential crazy man could know where our room was located. Still, I figured in the back of my mind that if any of this actually worried J, he would be all over Vegas security. I knew in some way he was milking my fear and innocence.

Wednesday morning we accidentally got suckered into going to a timeshare sales pitch, but we got some great free stuff out of the deal. For giving them 2 hours of our time in the morning, we received a free gondola ride at the Venetian hotel, free tickets to the Mme. Tussaud’s celebrity wax museum (tickets that were $30 each, but such a cool museum), and free lunch at a beautiful restaurant at the Venetian Hotel. The gondola ride was lovely complete with the singing hostess. The wax museum was far more incredible than my pictures depict. My camera flash made the wax figures look shiny and obviously fake. In person, there were several statues that we watched, waiting for them to blink or move because we honestly couldn’t tell that they were wax.

At the Venetian restaurant, we had a 3-4 course prepaid lunch that overlooked the canal. In what other setting could you envision a more romantic proposal? I could name a few, but once again ladies and gentlemen, my darling J gazed into my eyes, and gave me the sheepish smile. This time, however, he did spare me the whole one knee act. At this point, I guess he suspected that I would know whatever ring he pulled out of his pocket would only have broken prongs and an empty setting. Instead of asking me to marry him, he asked me to be his best friend forever. What girl could say no to such a humble request? We finished our lunch, enjoyed the rest of our afternoon window shopping, and had great seats to see Celine Dion live in concert at Caesar’s Palace.

Now, by this point, I knew I should be expecting a note to appear somewhere from my mysterious admirer, “Merlin the M”. Sure enough, once we got back to our hotel room, there was a note somewhere on one of the beds. Much like the others, this too talked about his magic, his love for me, and his ability to give me what I wanted: a huge diamond ring. He also warned me that the time was coming closer when we would be united. Fairly used to this routine, I didn’t give it too much thought.

Thursday, May 19, we woke up far too early in the morning and boarded one of those huge tour busses with the TVs. It took several hours to get out to the Grand Canyon, so we made a few stops. We stopped first at the Hoover Dam, and then at a local Native American restaurant for lunch. J paid extra money so we could take a helicopter ride into the Grand Canyon something I highly recommend. To accommodate us, the bus stopped at the location for our flight, and said they would meet us at the next location. Unfortunately, they failed to specify what time and where exactly the next location was. The helicopter flight was an experience too incredible for words, but what happened after that, led to a series of phone calls when we got home and them refunding half of our money. After our air tour of the canyon, we waited around in the gift shop for over an hour. Finally, one of the flight instructors told us that they had to take us to meet our bus, so they drove us in one of their vehicles. We ended up missing one stop along the canyon completely, and no one seemed to know when the bus would be arriving at this location. After realizing we had several hours to kill, we got some ice cream, and did some sightseeing of our own. On one very scenic outpost, what do you think happened? It’s almost redundant at this point, right? Same silly look, same empty ring, same confused laughter. Keep in mind that our flight home was the following evening around midnight, so I knew whatever was going on had to be solved by then. Our bus came after a little while, and we made our way safely back to Las Vegas.

For future reference, be very careful when booking a tour like that. What we didn’t realize was that we were one of the only couples scheduled for the helicopter tour, but the driver announced that if anyone else wanted to take one, they could just pay the extra amount and hop off the bus. The company later told us that the bus driver was wrong, and that the problem occurred when too many people were waiting for rides. It took the helicopter company several hours to meet the demand. J and I were the first in our group to go since we had a timely reservation. Since no one else in the group had a reservation, they had to wait until there were openings. The bus, instead of coming back to the helicopter site (like it had originally planned) told the company that it would just meet us at the last location. Essentially, J and I had our schedule flight as planned. The bus should have picked us up and continued to the last two stops, but because of the driver’s error, we missed a stop completely, and waited for several hours in two locations, really uncertain of how we were going to get back to Vegas. Needless to say, the bus company did not put up much of a fight when we asked for a refund. They couldn’t refund the whole thing since we still got a helicopter ride out of the deal, but we were satisfied with getting half back. Okay, back to Vegas and the culmination of our story…

Friday morning we had plans to explore the north of the strip including the Stratosphere and Circus Circus. (If you’re ever traveling to Vegas with kids, these two hotels are so much fun for those under 21). Our flight home was at midnight, so we packed our belongings, checked out of the hotel, and stored them at the hotel for the day. At the top of the Stratosphere (the tallest building/hotel in Nevada) was also a mini amusement park (featuring the tallest rollercoaster in the world). Those rides were thrilling and terrifying because some of them dangled you over the edge of the building where you saw nothing but the hard ground thousands of feet below you. At Circus Circus we played all sorts of arcade games that we definitely preferred over gambling. We even dueled it out in side-by-side Dance Dance Revolution. For some reason when we finished our three round segment, J fell to one knee and again offered a broken-pronged ring that was obviously made out of some cheap metal and was grossly too big for even my thumb. I laughingly pulled him up again, and we hurried to our last show in Vegas. Our culminating event was a dinner show at Excalibur called the Tournament of Kings (similar to Medieval Times, if you’ve ever been to one of those).

It was one of the first shows we booked, and we were able to get front row seats that were very close to the action (knights, horses, jousting, that kind of thing). I also kind of remembered by the event description that Merlin the M-agician would be doing the pre-show. Unsure of what to expect, we made our way to our seats. The arena was full, and out came Merlin in his white beard and blue magician suit. Trying to deny the reality, I shrunk down in my seat as I saw Merlin walk right up to J and introduce himself. Merlin asked J if he wanted to do a magic trick together, and sure enough something “magically” appeared in J’s pocket. (I know what you’re thinking…”awww how cute.” Unfortunately, that’s what EVERYONE though. Again, imagine if people had smart phones or social media back then. I’m so glad there wasn’t!) J reached into his pocket and pulled out a jewelry box. Almost instantly, everyone in the entire area simultaneously went, “awwwww!!!” Much to their disappointment, it was not a ring box that J held in his hand, but the necklace shaped jewelry box that I found just a few months earlier in J’s dresser drawer. Thoroughly confused, I opened the box and found the same folded piece of paper that once contained that precious stone, and one last note of the same genre as those I had been receiving all week. Merlin (the actor) also displayed a very puzzled look and quickly too the focus (and spotlight) off of us once he realized that there was no proposal.

I read the note that said, “Dearest, the time has come. Please meet me after the show at Sir Galahad’s. After you have chosen that which is most important to you, all of your dreams will come true.” (FYI: Sir Galahad’s was a fancy steak house near the buffet in Excalibur that’s no longer there.) I unfolded the bluish tissue paper with the same care as in April. To my surprise and extreme bewilderment I did not find a single stone, but instead, I found 6 single stones. I laughed very anxiously, and the lady sitting next to me leaned over and said, “Okay, this one you’ve got to explain.” I mumbled some vague answer back about having to pick out the real diamond among the CZ’s.

I can’t even tell you what we ate, or what the show was about. My mind was focused on Sir Galahad’s and what would happen afterwards. I do remember the excitement and anticipation. (My heart still beats quickly when I think of it.) The show ended with the evil knight being defeated and the chivalrous knights in triumph. As people slowly left the arena, J joking said, “You’re not really going to meet that guy are you?” We arrived at the restaurant entrance and the host took us to our reserved corner booth. This picturesque scene was priceless. I sat at the table with the stones lying out on the paper with the note out of the envelope and unfolded. After carefully examining the stones, I concluded that there was no way I could tell any of them apart. I reread the note, and suddenly something stood out above everything else. The line that said, “after you have chosen that which is most important to you…” set off obvious red flags. I refolded the note, put away the stones, looked into J’s eyes and said, “there is nothing in this world that is more important to me than you.”

That must have been the right answer because J gave a very soft smile, slid out of the booth, around to my side, and got on one knee…for real this time. He pulled a square black box from his pocket with the most dazzling diamond right inside with six enhancing side stones. He spoke several tear worthy words that I only remember because he gave me what he typed up and memorized. Ending of course with, “will you marry me?” I must have slightly stalled because he followed that by saying, “This is where you say yes.” With my breath taken away, and tears strolling down my cheeks, I was able to utter a yes.

 
Conclusion: and the reason for reading this whole thing. Yes, we’re now engaged, but there’s so much more to the story…

We had awhile to wait at the airport since we were very early. J looked at me and said that he was going to wait until later, but there’s no time like the present. I had a diamond ring on my finger, was on cloud nine, and was utterly dazed and confused. He handed me a Hallmark card that congratulated the newly engaged couple. I gave him a sly smile, and told him he was lucky I said yes. Inside the card was a typed letter from Merlin the “M.” Not Merlin the Magician as I has suspected the entire week, (with good reason) but Merlin the Mongoose. (The mongoose is an inside joke that goes all the way back to J’s years in high school. I was familiar enough with the joke to understand and be amused.)


The note said that J had to find a way to make me think that he wasn’t going to propose in Vegas, and I only made that too easy for him. J, (being the smart MIT man that he is) figured out my clues immediately and knew that I was surprising him over that weekend in April. (Yes, this is why I made you read about that in the beginning.) J also knew that I was a helpless snoop…so what do you think he did? He planted the loose diamond in his dresser drawer. Only it wasn’t a diamond. It was a CZ the whole time. He PLANTED it, KNOWING that I would snoop and find it. Throughout the weekend he even switched out a few different CZs to see if I would notice a difference between them. Of course he would never give me that stone because the real diamond was already at the jewelers. The whole reason behind this was to make me feel so guilty about snooping that I wouldn’t look in his bags in Vegas when he would have the real diamond ring, and also so that I would eliminate any suspicions that I had about him proposing then. What fun is a proposal if you expect it, right? Clever, intimate, elaborate, how I always dreamed my proposal would be. It was perfect!




Thanks for reading!

- Foxy the Traveler

Sunday, October 9, 2016

Germany to Austria - Driving from Nuremberg to Vienna

It's hard to believe how much time has gone by since I last posted about my travels in Germany, Austria, and Denmark. Life can sometimes get so busy, that the months and seasons pass without me even noticing. 

When I last left off, we had just driven from Berlin to Nuremberg making a few little stops along the way. The next morning, we rose and continued driving into Austria, and clear across the county until we reached Vienna.

After a comfortable night in the Hilton Nuremberg, we got on the road relatively early. We spent over 4 hours on the road driving which isn't quite as much as the day before, but still a lot of driving for two days in a row. But rather than drive 4 hours straight and get to Vienna right away, we made (in my humble opinion) a very important pit stop on the way there.

About 2.5 hours into the drive to Vienna, we stopped at the former Mauthausen Concentration Camp. We had no trouble getting across the Austrian border after stopping for over priced gas and sandwiches. Crossing countries in the EU is very similar to crossing state boarders in the USA. There may be a sign, "Thanks for visiting" or "Welcome to..." but other than there, there is no border control. Same thing with Germany and Austria. I think there was a sign denoting the change in countries, but it was in German and not very significant.  Note: make sure your car has the Austrian toll sticker, otherwise you will have problems driving through the country. We got ours at the gas station right before crossing the border.

We arrived at the former KZ camp about 30 mins early for the English tour and spent time at the camp until about 12:30. The tour was very well done, and it was a very moving experience to see how much of the camp is still in tact. Visitors have the option of walking the "stairs of death" from the former quarry, but due to our time constraints we skipped that. 



Entrance to the former Mauthausen KZ camp


"Stairs of Death" at the Mauthausen KZ camp

From Mauthausen, we drove just another 90 minutes to Vienna, stopping first at Schonnbrun Palace, the summer residence of the Hapsburgs just outside of Vienna proper. The hubs and I got the Sisi ticket (29 Euros) which included both the Schonnbrun Palace and the Hofborg Palace which we were planning to visit tomorrow. The Schonnbrun Palace is very large (think the Versailles of Austria) and opulent. We walked around the gardens for about an hour before going through the palace. The grounds are very extensive, and you can walk up a ways and get an awesome view of the palace with the city of Vienna behind hit (see my picture below). It was a great introduction to Vienna and to the historic Hapsburg empire. 



Schonnbrun Palace from the entrance


Schonnbrun Palace from the gardens

On our way out, we met up with my in-laws who went through the palace at a different pace than us. We went back to our car which we parked on a nearby street and headed right to the center of Vienna. It took us about another 30 mins to drive to the Hotel Trend Europa Vienna (read my trip advisor review). As I stated in my review, we had a little bit of difficulty with this hotel all due to factors out of our control. Europe was going through a heatwave that summer, so Vienna which is usually more temperate was very hot. We chose this hotel for 2 reasons: location and a/c. When our a/c wasn't working, it caused some problems. The a/c for my in-laws worked just fine, and I certainly don't hold our experience against this hotel. We were right in downtown Vienna and paid only $180/night including parking.  

We got cleaned up and headed over to the town hall for an Austrian Dinner show. The show started at 8pm with musicians and salad. After clearing the salads, the singers and dancers came out. They performed selections from Austrian operas for about 20 mins before they brought us the second course of stuffed beef and pasta. Dessert was a buttermilk soufflé but it tasted more like chopped up pancakes…equally as delicious. 





When we got back to our hotel around 10:30-11PM we realized that our a/c still wasn’t working. After some arguing with the maintenance staff, they gave us a different and much smaller (if that was even possible) but cooler room. It was a rather unpleasant end to our evening, but the next day we had nearly a full day to spend in Vienna, and I was already enchanted by this amazing European city. Unlike Berlin who modernized their city after it was leveled by allied bombings, Vienna didn't near suffer the same devastation and amazingly held onto their historic architecture. You truly feel like you're walking in an old city free from the cosmopolitan hubbub that I don't like in US cities. We only had 2 problems in Vienna...we were there on a Sunday...and it was a Sunday in August. If you read one of my older posts about our trip to Italy, you'll that we encountered a very similar phenomenon when we visited Milan

To continue reading about Vienna, click HERE



Thanks for reading!


- Foxy the Traveler

Saturday, June 4, 2016

Western Germany en route to Vienna

After spending a day and a half in the bustling, busy, boisterous city of Berlin, we started making our way to Vienna by driving through the western side of Germany. I explained in my introductory post to this trip, that due to circumstances beyond our control, we couldn't drive from Berlin to Prague to Vienna like we planned. So instead, we took a detour around the Czech Republic. We wouldn't get to Vienna in one day, so we drove for about 6 hours the first day, taking little stops in the middle, spent the night in Nuremberg and then continued onto Vienna the following day.

On Friday, August 9, we got off to an early start (shocking, I know). We checked out of the Radisson Blu hotel in Berlin around 6:30AM and set off in our black volvo toward the Castle Church in Wittenberg. Short history lesson! The Castle Church in Wittenberg is where Martin Luther posted his 95 Thesis starting the Protestant Reformation in 1517. We found the church with relative ease after driving for about an hour and a half. We parked on the most adorable, picturesque German street, took a few pictures, and were on our way again. (The church itself was closed for restoration.) 


Castle Church - Wittenberg, Germany

"Door" where Martin Luther posted his 95 Theses

Quaint Street in Wittenberg, Germany

We then stopped at a market for gas, water, snacks, and toilets in a small town. What we discovered on our drive that day was that in Germany, there are either Autobahn highways or small country roads, nothing in between. In the United States, we have giant interstate highways or freeways, we have back country roads, but then we also have just normal 4 lane highways that are neither terrifying due to speed or terrifying due to their narrowness. I found it very interesting that one minute we were driving on a highway with no speed limit and the next minutes we were down to a narrow 2-lane road no faster than 25 mph.  

After driving on country roads for about 2 hours (2 very frustrating, windy, long hours), we made it to our next stop. Our next destination after Wittenberg was the Meissen Pottery Factory just outside of Dresden. Not being able to go to Prague ended up being a blessing in disguise for my mother-in-law who is a pottery lover. Meissen pottery is very fancy, very beautiful and very expensive. I enjoyed our visit to the factory even if the gift shop was little out of my price range. We sat through a short demonstration on the making of Meissen pottery and my mother-in-law took home a little souvenir. 


Meissen Pottery Factory - Dresden, Germany

Next to the Meissen factory was a grocery store, so we picked up some sandwiches and meat and cheese and ate lunch in the car on our way to Nuremberg. After a boring 2.5 hour drive, we made it to the Documentation Center and Nazi Party Rally Grounds. 

The reason we left Berlin so early was to try and get to this place before it closed, and as I mentioned, it took us 6 hours of total driving time to get there. The Documentation Center and Nazi Party Rally Grounds was a series of underground bunkers and tunnels and an unfinished stadium intended to be used by Hitler for large rallies. What I found remarkable about this place is that it's one of the only remaining examples of Nazi architecture. I know that might not seem like anything noteworthy, but I disagree. By using slave labor and by conducting abominable experiments on human lives, the Nazis were able to make significant technological and medicinal advances. But what do we know about Nazi architecture? Maybe there is nothing to know. As World War II ended, nearly all of Hitler's properties and headquarters were destroyed by the advancing allies (and rightfully so). They didn't touch this place in Nuremberg, however, because it was never finished. Now it stands as a testimony to what could have been, what Hitler had intended, and the museum in the tunnels below the rally grounds now act as a museum about life within Nazi Germany.

Unfinished Nazi Party Rally Grounds - Nuremberg, Germany

I've read countless books on World War II, watched numerous documentaries, chatted with Holocaust survivors and read their memoirs, toured Holocaust museums, volunteered at the one in Washington DC, visited former Concentration Camps, and what I saw in this museum beneath the Nazi Party Rally Grounds proved to me how much I still had to learn about the whole World War II era. Instead of going into the sordid details about Hitler's plan for European Jewry, it took a closer look at prewar Germany and the people who lived there between 1933-1939. I still remember footage from one of the videos where two elderly ladies laughed and talked about being young girls and having a competition to see who could attend more of the "Fuhrer's" parades and see him in person. It was a new side of an exhausted story that I never heard before, and for that reason, I am very glad I went.

But you aren't reading a history blog (though perhaps I should start one), you're reading a travel blog. Surrounding the Documentation Center & Nazi Party Rally Grounds, we found lots of road closures and construction. We eventually made our way to the Hilton Nuremberg Hotel which is a lovely convention hotel outside of the city, but in a great location for us for driving the next morning. (You can read my trip advisor review of the hotel here.) 

After checking in, we went back out for dinner at “Tang” a German-Chinese Restaurant. It was delicious but absolutely hilarious. They clearly knew we were tourists and either Americans or just assumed that any non-German tourists spoke English. They didn't greet us in German, they didn't offer us German menus, or even attempt to speak any German to us what so ever. The food, although we ordered individual plates, was served family style and over little hotplates with candles under them. Not that we needed them. After nothing but convenience store sandwiches and minimart snacks all day, we gobbled up our German-Chinese dinner, and then called it a day. Another early morning awaits us….

Wait a minute. We got back to the hotel and instead of pillow mints, they were....what is that?? Turn on the light. Huh? Gummy bears? They put gummy bears on our pillows? So weird, but kinda fun! Who doesn't love gummy bears?! :)

So, if you ever find yourself in western Germany, I hope you find this blog helpful. Next up is Vienna and other parts of Austria. Keep reading by clicking HERE.



Thanks for reading!



- Foxy the Traveler

Monday, May 30, 2016

Berlin, Germany Part II

One of the things I love about Europe is the age of many of its famous structures. These countries existed hundreds of years before the creation of the United States, and with that history come magnificent churches, castles, cathedrals, etc. For that reason, I was excited to visit Germany. Berlin, but it does not contain anything...well...old. Being a student of history, I knew that the allies heavily bombed Berlin during WWII, but I suppose it had never sunk in just how much of the city was leveled. 

We visited Berlin on Thursday, August 8, 2013 and found it just as dirty, noisy, etc as any major city. It’s funny, however, because things still looked old. Germany rebuilt Berlin to look like it was never bombed. To me, that made it lose some of its appeal/charm. They nearly completely rebuilt the cathedral, that we visited the night before (read about it here), in 1946. The original cathedral dated back hundreds of years which was impressive to me, but seeing a rebuilt cathedral didn't have the same WOW factor as say the Florence Duomo

There were still a good many things that I enjoyed seeing during our day and a half in Berlin. On our full day, we got up around 5AM, ate our breakfast pastries that we bought the night before and were at the train station by 6:40AM. We caught an early bus and were standing outside the Bundestag building by 6:55AM...slightly early for our 8AM Dome tickets. To pass the time, we took a walk around the immediate area and ducked into a bus stop while waiting for a morning shower/t-storm to pass. At 8:00, we passed through a quick security checkpoint and then went inside the Berlin parliament building. We were very glad that we visited early both before it got too crowded or too hot. 


Bundestag - Berlin Parliament Building

The tickets to the Bundestag don't include anything more than the dome which I knew ahead of time but still didn't love. Don't get me wrong, the dome is pretty incredible and the audio tour is amazing. The audio device is wired to sense where you are at any point of the dome and switch automatically to different tracks depending on the view you're currently looking at. Very intelligent and impressive technology for a tourist attraction. Be prepared for a lot of walking if you visit the dome. I highly recommend it. 


Dome tour atop the Berlin Parliament building


After visiting the dome, we walked to the Brandenburg Gate. Only about a 10 minute walk from the Bundestag, we stopped there on our way to the Berlin Holocaust memorial. I loved how there was almost no one at the Brandenburg Gate when we were there. My in-laws visited there later in the afternoon, and there pictures were much more crowded.


Brandenburg Gate - Berlin, Germany


The Berlin Holocaust Memorial is very large and interesting. Completed in 2005, I found it curious that it took 60 years for Berlin to do something like this. Better late than never, I suppose. It is quite extraordinary just how large the memorial is. No admission fee, you can just wander in and out at various points throughout the city. 


Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe - Berlin, Germany

We continued walking around Berlin, and paid $0.50 to use one of the steaming hot city johns which were fascinating and amusing. From there, we walked to the Gendarmarkt which is a square with the opera house sandwiched between two identical churches one German and one French. I thought the square would have had food vendors of some sort or nearby restaurants, but since they had neither, we kept our time there to a minimum and kept going. 


Half of the Gendarnmarkt Square - Berlin, Germany

We took a quick detour through two exhibits on the Russian Gulag at the Berlin Story Museum. Nearly all of the exhibit material was in German, so although I found the artifacts interesting, we couldn't learn too much from the display labels or text panels. So, we left and made our way to museum island. On museum island in Berlin, they have 5 different museums focusing on everything from Byzantine art to ancient Egypt. We planned on going to the Egyptian museum at a minimum, but just the line to buy tickets far exceeded our patience, so we left. Hunger trumped our desired to stand in line for over an hour with no shade whatsoever. If you have more than a day in Berlin, I'm sure you could easily spend a full day or two just touring these museums. And if you only have a day in Berlin, and museums are the thing for you, perhaps you would make that more of a priority. Our afternoon agenda, however, had other things on it.

We left museum island fairly quickly avoiding the modern-day gypsies who were going up to tourists asking them if they spoke English. We ignored them and pretended not to understand. Having come full circle since early this morning, we found little pizzas for lunch right near our hotel and then headed to Alexanderplatz, the main train station

We took the S7 train to the Wannsee stop, then took the 114 bus 6 stops to the Haus der Wannsee Konferenz  For those of you who don't know what this is, it is the historic villa where top Nazi officials held a conference on January 20, 1942 where they decided the fate of European Jewry.  The villa was absolutely beautiful and situation on a very picturesque lake. The inside has been converted into a museum. I wish they could have incorporated a museum about the Holocaust and the Wannsee Conference without removing all of the furniture from the house itself. The rooms all stood empty with display cases and information panels on the walls. The museum was very informative if you weren’t already familiar with the subject, and in the room where they held the actual conference, you could read the meeting minutes which I found very interesting. I would have liked to see perhaps one panel that just gave a brief history of the villa itself before the infamous Nazi meeting.

Haus der  Wannsee Konferenz - Wannsee, Germany

Back of the Wannsee Conference House 

Afterwards, we took the train back to Berlin but got off at the Tiergarten instead of taking it back to our hotel. We walked the full length of the garden to the Brandenburg Gate again and took an over-heated bus back to the hotel. 

Tiergarten - Berlin, Germany

We reconnected with my in-laws for dinner and heard all about their day. We got some buttery breakfast danishes for the next morning and returned to the Radisson Blu for our last night in Berlin. If you recall from a previous post, I mentioned that our original plan had been to drive from Berlin to Prague to Vienna. Since the German rental car companies derailed that plan, in order to get to Vienna, we had to take a detour around the Czech Republic. To do that, we drove through parts of western Germany which you can read all about by clicking HERE.



Thanks for reading!

- Foxy the Traveler


Friday, April 1, 2016

Berlin, Germany Part I

Hello friends. After our day in Copenhagen, Germany, we set off for Germany. We took the fastest route possible, which included a 2 hour ferry ride across the Baltic Sea. We got off to a rough start that morning when our alarm didn’t go off at 5:30. Getting up at 6:30 gave us very little time to get ready and packed, but by 7:40 we were check out of the Crowne Plaza and ready for the airport shuttle. 

At the airport, we found the Hertz counter to pick up our car that we would drive around Germany, Austria and back to Denmark for the next 2 weeks. I had prearranged with Hertz to order a very specific car so that we made sure to get an automatic transmission with a large enough trunk for four people's worth of luggage. Even with the Volvo wagon that we got, the folks in the back seat had to deal with a bag between them the entire time. Big tip - pack light! When you travel with more than 2 people, renting a car and splitting the cost is definitely the way to go instead of trains and public transportation the entire time. We paid $1,222 for our car for 2 weeks. That's $611/couple which I thought was a good deal. The snafu that we ran into happened in the Copenhagen airport. We arrived at the hertz counter a little before our scheduled pick up time. The car was already available but they wanted to charge us a fee for picking it up early. After double checking our receipt and noticing what happened, we assured them that we would return it early, and they agreed to lower the price back down. It helped that we had all of our confirmation paperwork printed and available to show them which made it difficult for them to refute the reservation price.


From Copenhagen, we set out for the town of Gedser, Denmark which took us about 1:45 drive. From there we stopped at the ferry entrance and waited for the green light to drive our car onto the ferry. We took the Scandlines ferry across the sea. The other couple arranged the ferry so I don't recall the exact price, but looking at the website now, prices range from 40 Euros and up. I do know that we paid extra for priority boarding because we were bringing a vehicle with us. I can't say whether or not this was necessary, but if definitely made us feel better knowing that we were in a different lane than other cars and that we got on the ferry (and off the ferry) first.

As soon as we got on the ferry, we parked underneath the ship and then headed to the top. The ferry itself was lovely and we really enjoyed the short time we spent aboard. It was only a 2 hour ride, and inside they had a luncheon buffet and duty free shopping. I love Toblerone. :) 

At the buffet we experienced our first encounter with chip and pin credit cards. These are starting to pop up all over Europe, and the machines are not compatible with American credit cards. We are slowly getting more and more cards with chips in them, but they are still not the same as the chip and PIN cards that they have over seas. My in-laws traveling with us even got a specific card with a chip in it, but the pin still didn't work. In nearly all cases where we had an issue (and could communicate with the sales clerk) we had to tell them that we had no pin. Once they realized we were foreign or had no pin, they were able to run the card a different way and it would work. And if worst comes to worst, always make sure you have enough cash on you to cover things like meals or other small incidentals.


Duty free findings on our ferry from Denmark to Germany

Before reaching the other side, they made a few announcements about going back to our cars, but they were either in Danish or German. We kept an eye on our watches, but made it back to our car just in the nick of time before the doors opened for us to drive off. You could say the timing was perfect, but we cut it a little too close for my timidity. 

Our first mission in Germany was a quest to find the Green Emission sticker for driving in city centers. I don't know how on earth we came across this, but at some point during my research, I found out that German cars are required to have a special clean emission sticker in order to drive downtown in certain cities. Since our Berlin hotel was smack in the middle of the city, we knew this was something we'd have to worry about. If we had rented a car in Germany itself, the car would have already come with the appropriate stickers, but since we rented our car in Denmark, it only had the necessary Danish stickers. We weighed the likelihood of getting a ticket vs. the cost, time and stress of taking a rental car to a car shop in Germany. The cost of the sticker was only 6.55 euros vs. a violation ticket of 40 euros (and they required stickers in Berlin, Munich, Frankfurt, Hamburg, Nuremberg and Freiburg, all of which we were visiting) so we decided to figure out where we needed to stop and get one. Of course that wasn't terrible easy either, but we eventually found a place within a pretty close distance to where our ferry dropped us (in Rostock, Germany). Of course, being this far outside any major city, we couldn't find anyone who spoke English to tell them what we needed. Fortunately, my father-in-law paid for an international data plan on his iPad and had a translator app. As soon as he typed in green sticker, the gentleman at the ATU station knew what we wanted. We gave him our rental paperwork and the documents in the glove compartment, paid our 6.55E, got our sticker and were on our way.



ATU Station in Rostock, Germany

Green Emission Sticker for city driving in Germany

After another 2 hours we drove to the center of Berlin to the Radisson Blu Hotel. We parked underground and checked in. You can read my trip advisor review on the hotel, but in short, it was pretty great. We chose it for the location. We only planned on spending a single day in Berlin, so having a hotel with easy access to attractions and public transportation trumped everything else. My husband and I opted for the non-refundable, prepaid price of $157/night for 2 nights while my in-laws booked a refundable fare which was slightly more expensive. Our rooms were identical, so depending on what type of traveler you are, either option is doable at this hotel.


Giant fish tank inside the Radisson Blu Hotel - Berlin

We didn't waste anytime. We arrived in Berlin in the middle of the afternoon, dropped our bags in our rooms, and immediately set out on foot for the Berlin Cathedral (right next door to the hotel). Allied bombing nearly destroyed the Berlin Cathedral during World War II (and nearly all of Berlin/Germany for that matter), but as you walk up the staircase toward the dome, you can read all about the renovation project that took place after the war. They also had pre and post war pictures which I found especially fascinating.


Pipe organ inside the Berlin Cathedral

From the cathedral, we walked to the main train station, Alexanderplatz. We fought with the ticket dispensers for about an hour. This was a rather unfortunate waste of time, but the youtube videos we watched prior to arriving didn't help us at this particular moment. We eventually realized that the machine we stood at was a change only machine. My father-in-law went to one of the convenience stores (think 7-11) and got enough change to buy tickets. It was then that we learned that the U-Bahn is on the honor system. The idea is that they randomly check passengers for tickets but you don't technically need a ticket to enter/exit the metro like you do in the United States, Tokyo, Bangkok, etc.  I don't recall now if they ever checked ours, but we always made sure we had them. 

We headed from Alexanderplatz to Bernauer Strasse and then still had to walk quite a ways to reach the Berlin Wall Memorial and Documentation Center. We got to the Documentation Center with only a short amount of time to see it before they closed. We then spent some time walking around the remnants of the wall itself outside. I thought this was a very moving experience and highly recommend it. It's a piece of history that happened during our own lifetime and made such a huge impact on the people living in Berlin at the time. 

Berlin Wall Memorial - Berlin, Germany

After visiting the Berlin Wall Memorial, we took the train back to Alexanderplatz, got a traditional German dinner, bought some pastries at a bakery for breakfast the next morning (breakfast at the hotel cost something ridiculous) and called it a day. 

Click HERE for Berlin Part II which includes many more great tourist attractions and my own perspective on Berlin as a modern European city. 


Thanks for reading!

- Foxy the Traveler